Tips for avoiding the austere
No. 57
“I think elegance should be the theme of this holiday season” is something I said in real life last month. The fact is - there is no better theme than elegance this time of the year. With autumn still in our hearts (and perhaps a bit of disbelief in the ever-shrinking daylight) we are not yet attuned to the harsh, cold reality of winter. We exist in a starry-eyed kaleidoscope of rich colors, soft fabrics, and daring silhouettes. I liken it to having a baby: once you’re a few months removed from the whole ordeal of winter (or, birth), you start to consider what it would look like to have another (or so I hear, the only child I have is a cat the size of a large serving bowl). Similarly, many of us find ourselves excited at the prospect of a glitzy winter wardrobe, only to take refuge in the same 3 sweaters all winter long.
The holiday season and immediately after (yes, this has been in the barrel since early December….please bear with me) is the perfect time to indulge in this exact winter fantasy - dramatic shapes and sumptuous textures - before the spirit leaves us cold and lazy. If spring/summer is all about letting the little things do the talking: dainty jewelry, tanned skin, crocheted tops and mini skirts, then winter is about letting your clothing take center stage. What does this mean? Yes, it means gorgeous coats with chunky belted waistlines, sky-high patent boots and costume jewelry, dripping in diamonds. But it also means playing with how you express your own shape. I always lament that in summer, the best accessory for a cute swimsuit is, regrettably, a hot bod. In the depths of winter, we clad ourselves in pieces that speak for our tired bodies, allowing us to keep our literal and proverbial hands in our pockets. Winter is the best time to play with bold details, dramatic shapes, and glamour - we just need to make sure it aligns with how we actually dress when the temperatures start to drop.
So in that spirit, let’s talk about some different ways to incorporate elegance and glamour in a wearable way this season - for whatever wearable means to you.
High Necklines
My entire life, people have called me tall (I am around 5’9) but the truth is, I hold almost all of my length in my neck and décolletage. In theory, this is fine, but it makes for quite a bit of space to cover in the winter. A high neckline feels very organic on me: whether in the form of a pussy bow blouse, a mock neck, or shirting buttoned to the top. High necklines look fabulous with everything from tailored pants, to wide leg jeans, to full skirts, to short shorts and tights. A good high neck on a blouse, dress, or sweater is a fantastic way to add a level of polish to an otherwise drab outfit.
Nina Blanc striped bow tie blouse - and she is on sale!
Neutral Patterns
Many of us can’t handle both a pattern and a color (which, fair!) and for this cohort, it can be easy for winter outfits to elicit a yawn. A great coat in a neutral pattern (animal print is having a moment - but then again, it never really goes out of style!) allows seamless pairing with your trusty jeans and neutral sweaters while adding a pop - without splurging on a bright red or blue coat you’ll get sick of immediately.
Rohe cheetah print coat that I am drooling over
Funky Textures
Another way to add opulence to your winter wardrobe is through texture. With lower light in the winter months, I tend to gravitate towards textures that are light reflecting: jacquards, silks, and patent leathers. It is easy to feel one-note when all of your neutrals are also in light-absorbing fabrics like cotton and wool. A sweater with cashmere or silk in its constitution, a shiny shoe, or a glittery pant is sure to elevate even your most pared-back looks.
Dries van Noten burgundy jacquard coat
Laganini ivory jacket for a bit of shape, a bit of texture, and a high neck! The trinity!
Margaux pointed burgundy flats - these are my daily drivers this season
Bold Colors
…but on traditional shapes, for those unafraid of a winter bright. Winter renders most of us terrified of anything that looks ghastly against pale winter skin, but the fact is that most of us have a much wider color tolerance, even in the depths of winter, than we think. Regardless of skin tone and season, I’ll always wear a bright red. Though in the spring and summer I pair the color with a ruffled blouse or a tiered skirt, in the winter, tone down the color with a simple, more traditional shape.
Wynn Hamlyn double cardigan in red
Bold shapes
…but with a pared-back color palette, for those who never venture outside of neutral territory. If you’re lucky enough to live somewhere you don’t need to don four layers every time you leave the house, you can experiment more with unusual silhouettes: cinched waists, flowing capes, or sculptural collars that make a statement through form rather than color.
Emelia Wickstead embossed croc jacket
Cano brooch - never underestimate a brooch to nip, sweep, and pull your fabrics every which way for a fun new shape
Rich Fabrics
Because sometimes you really just want to be coddled! Everyone needs a good collection of winter sweaters, but I personally find that I look shlubby in anything too languid and loose. Sumptuous fabrics in structured fits make me still feel like myself even when all I want is to lounge around or lie about all day. Whatever feels right to you: whether it be sweeping cardigans or cascading turtlenecks, make sure it feels really good.
This came at the exact right time as I was planning a cold NYC trip!!!! What an article- you’ve done it again ✨